# Duke Of Lancaster



## marco nista

G'day -

I will be up in North Wales in a few week's time & was thinking to go & have a look at the beached DUKE OF LANCASTER & was wondering whether any members can give me advice on gaining access to the area for photographs.

I am not seeking to get aboard, merely to take photographs & would naturally like to get as close to the ship as possible.

I can see the ship on Google Earth - is the seawall to the east of the ship accessible without trespassing ?
Presumably the quay on her starboard side is not accessible ?
Where is the best place to park [I've no objection to walking a mile or two !].

If you are able to help it would be very much appreciated, as would any other useful info.

I have Emailed the 'Duke of Lancaster Appreciation Society' but have had no response, their website is worth a look -

http://www.dukeoflancaster.net

Thanks in advance for any responses,

73s

Marco


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## cos918

There is 2 public foot path that run down each side of the stream which lead to the old dock were she is moored.

John


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## keith ratcliffe

It is possible to get quite close to the ship on the rocky shore line immediatly opposite the ship. To reach this point park your car on the Solitare market site which has an old ships lifeboat adjacent to the main road (A548). There is a footpath left hand side leading under the main coastal railway line to the shore line. It is such a sad sight seeing this ship rotting away, but you should get good photographs, especially if the light is right. Good luck, Keith.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Duke of Lancaster hey day*



keith ratcliffe said:


> It is possible to get quite close to the ship on the rocky shore line immediatly opposite the ship. To reach this point park your car on the Solitare market site which has an old ships lifeboat adjacent to the main road (A548). There is a footpath left hand side leading under the main coastal railway line to the shore line. It is such a sad sight seeing this ship rotting away, but you should get good photographs, especially if the light is right. Good luck, Keith.


Just stumbled on this site, as I am a regular contributor to the Bankline site - ( a bit further up!)

I am an ex Chief Officer of the Lancaster when she was in her Hey Day thrashing backwards and forwards to Belfast with 2000 plus passengers, and it is sad to think of her situation now. It reinforces my long held view that ships should have a noble end if pssible - just like humans deserve!


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## marco nista

COS918 / Keith -

Many thanks for your useful replies.
I agree with Alan re the final end for a ship.
This survival is so bizarre is that it certainly deserves a visit.
Hopefully she will be given the coup de grace before she gets into as bad a state of the paddler RYDE on the Isle of Wight.
I've been looking at Ordnance Survey maps in the internet where there is a half-hearted representaton of the ship & much useful info re public footpaths etc.

Thanks again !

73s

Marco


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## keith ratcliffe

Marco. The ship is not identified on an Ordnance Map, however, you need an O.M. Landranger No 116. The ship is lying at Llannerch-y-Mor, Map Reference 795 178. A548 Flint to Prestatyn road. Good luck, Keith


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## marco nista

Keith -

Thanks for info & grid ref etc.

Using 'Streetmap' [which seems to be based on O/S mapping] I managed to bring up out a 1/25000 map of Llannerch y Mor & the the shape of the hull does seem to be vaguely visible, or at least the basin in the mud where she is lying.

Hopefully this link will work -

http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?...r&st=3&tl=Map+of+Llannerch-y-mor,+Flintshire+[Town]&searchp=ids.srf&mapp=map.srf

If it doesn't, just go their their homepage & ask for 'Llannerch y Mor'

http://www.streetmap.co.uk/

You need to zoom in to 1/25000 to see what I am on about.

The ship looks reasonably accessible, with footpaths on both sides of the creek & I am looking forward to getting there in about three weeks time.

73s

Marco


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## NoR

*Duke of Lancaster off Google Maps*

Attached pic of Duke of Lancaster copied off Google Satellite using Mac Grab.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Duke of Lancaster - cruises*

Contributors might like to read about the " Duke of Lancaster" cruising which took place most summers in the 1960's. The company selected her from the 3 vessels ( the others being the " Duke of Rothesay" and the " Duke of Argyll". ) The cruises were usually 10 days duration, and we went down to Portugal and Brittany, also a different route cruising through the Scottish Islands on the west coast. A third destination wa Copenhagen and the Norwegian ports. A great time was had by all, and it was very civilised on the bridge, with no hassle at all. All ponced up in our best uniforms, and taking tea and coffee at regular intervals.

It was popular with regular customers, and being British Rail, we used to joke that they were all kept in sidings in Crewe during the winter months!

I met my wife of 45 years on one of the cruises, as she was in the hairdressing salon and she could hear my dulcet tones over the Tannoy before we met. Oh, sheer nostalgia!!


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## Jacktar1

*Duke of Lancaster*

In 1953 I signed off a ship at Belfast and travelled back to the UK on the BR "Duke of Lancaster" which was operating the Belfast to Heysham route.
A beautiful ship, after departure Belfast I was allowed to visit the bridge and remember the mate on watch telling me that they changed watch's when the vessel was abeam Pt of Ayre, I.O.M.
I believe that this is not the Duke of Lancaster mentioned in this post.
Maybe it was Duke of Lancaster 1, can anyone confirm this ???
Also, is there a photo around.

Cheers.........Glan


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## davidrwarwick

Glan ,
Don't know much about ferries but could this be the one your on about:-

http://www.simplonpc.co.uk/LMS_Heysham.html#anchor1284800

scroll down about a third of the page, built in 1928, forunner of the Duke of Lancaster this thread is about.

Dave


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## Jacktar1

Hi Dave,

Many thanks....yes, thats the one I have been looking for.

Cheers,
Glan


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## keith ratcliffe

Marco. Did you ever manage to get up to North Wales and find the Duke of Lancester? Regards Keith


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## clearway1

this ship was on bbc coast program 2days ago get on iplayer quite interesting


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## Coastie

Try this:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b012l0h7/Coast_Series_6_Wales_Border_to_Border/


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## ART6

Pardon my ignorance, but how did she get up on the beach there? Was she abandoned there or did she run aground? Seems remarkably intact for a ship that was both aground and abandoned -- lifeboats still there etc. No wreckers left in Wales?(==D)


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## BelliniTosi

ART6 said:


> Pardon my ignorance, but how did she get up on the beach there? Was she abandoned there or did she run aground? Seems remarkably intact for a ship that was both aground and abandoned -- lifeboats still there etc. No wreckers left in Wales?(==D)


She didn't run aground or is abandoned
Have a look here
http://www.dukeoflancaster.net/index.htm


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## john blythe

the duke of lancaster was on tv the other night COAST and i think someone lives on her


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## Coastie

john blythe said:


> the duke of lancaster was on tv the other night COAST and i think someone lives on her


Yes, this was the link I posted earlier.

http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode...der_to_Border/


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## keith ratcliffe

I visited the Duke of Lancaster last week with access by footpaths on both sides of the creek directly off the main road. Unlike the coast programme you are unable to gain adjacent contact to the ship due to security fencing and a vigilant security guard but either way with a telephoto lense you can get a reasonable picture or so. She is such a sad sight especially when you look at photographs in her operational splender.


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## captain fish

This ship is a personal favourite of mine & I am a member of the Appreciation Society. The ship has a fascinating history and the owner does still very much care for her but keeps her in the condition she is for a good reason.
I there last Monday and got some brilliant pics (to add to my collection of many!) 
Access to the ship is via public footpath at the side. You can see adequately from there. Do not try to enter the dock by climbing the fence as the owners have very tight security and its reputation is feared by many!


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## 6639

captain fish said:


> and the owner does still very much care for her but keeps her in the condition she is for a good reason.


the only reason I can see a person keeping a vessel in that condition is, because they can't afford to do anything else with it!!!!

does the appreciation society really appreciate it..........I would have thought that unless they do something about it and soon, there'll be nothing to appreciate but a pile of rusty plates(Cloud)(Cloud)


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## jmcg

Her engine room is capped full of concrete. Is this correct?

BW

J(Gleam)(Gleam)


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Lancaster nostalgia*



keith ratcliffe said:


> I visited the Duke of Lancaster last week with access by footpaths on both sides of the creek directly off the main road. Unlike the coast programme you are unable to gain adjacent contact to the ship due to security fencing and a vigilant security guard but either way with a telephoto lense you can get a reasonable picture or so. She is such a sad sight especially when you look at photographs in her operational splender.


Seeing as we are on a nostalgia site, here are a few memories of the Duke of Lancaster in her glory days.

Firstly, she was regarded as the sort of flagship in Heysham harbour in the 60's - the Master was in a prestigious position, even if it was just for the night crossing and he slept most of the way! The atmosphere on the bridge was soporific ( dangerous!) with little noise and 20 plus knots, and just the radar and a lookut either side to warn of any dangers. We kept time to the nearest minute, and more than 5 minutes either side of the schedule on arrival in Belfast called for an explanation from superiors. Can recall sliding around the Point of Ayre, at the North tip of the Isle of Man a few cables off, night after night, and this was the place for a change of watchkeeper on the bridge.

She was a hard working ship, apart from the summer cruises when things were a bit more sedate and a bit more interesting.. During the rest of the year she thrashed backwards and forwards with her sisters, and with up to 2000 passengers. The shipboard routine was well rehearsed and everyone knew the drill which made life easier. Often there were disturbances or fights below in the summer in particular, and handcuffs were used to restrain the passengers ( it's all included in the fare, I would tell them!) One of my lasting memories of the Lancaster is the rather unpleasant smell that hung around the bars, especially aft, in the days of having a second class bar. Stale beer and dried vomit.

We occasionally lost someone overboard ( as all ferries do) and rarely found them in the dark and often choppy sea. The cause was usually play acting after a drinking session. The railway ferries had a wide ' belting ' around them to act as a fender, and the upper one attracted idiots who climbed over to play peek a boo over the rail to their friends.

In the late 60,s we grounded on the rocks outside of Heysham harbour when entering. The grinding noise as we lifted up and down in the swell was terrible. After getting off and later drydocking in Holyhead, I saw the plates underneath and they were twisted and broken, and some were indented in a sort of ' tin hat ; shape, without puncturing. It made me realise how soft and pliable rolled steel can be. The Master was a good friend of mine - Capt. ( Daddy) Greenwood, and he had been guiding her in for 15 years plus without incident, and this happened during the last few weeks of his career. What a blow. He was immensely proud of her , and was heard to say " What a lovely sight we must be " when passing other ships in daylight!

I have just read through the entries above re the present state of the once proud Duke of Lancaster, and it would have been nice if she had gone to her grave in a dignified way. It's all we wish for ourselves, after all.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Duke of Lancaster pics*



captain fish said:


> This ship is a personal favourite of mine & I am a member of the Appreciation Society. The ship has a fascinating history and the owner does still very much care for her but keeps her in the condition she is for a good reason.
> I there last Monday and got some brilliant pics (to add to my collection of many!)
> Access to the ship is via public footpath at the side. You can see adequately from there. Do not try to enter the dock by climbing the fence as the owners have very tight security and its reputation is feared by many!


Are your pics of the "Lancaster " posted online anywhere? I would be very interested to see them.....


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## Coastie

It HAD to bloody happen

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-east-wales-20328172


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## billyboy

Sigh!..I suppose its the only way the poor old girl will ever get paint on her.


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## Coastie

Some people call it art, but, to me it's sheer mindless vandalism.


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## Duncan112

I would dispute the use of the verb "Docked" in the BBC write up - beached would imho be more appropriate. Seriously though it's about time she was given a dignified burial - but I suspect the Environment Agency will not allow her to be broken in situ and the chances of her being floated off ate akin to a ping pong ball in a blast furnace so she will remain as a sorry reminder of her proud past.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*ship art*



Coastie said:


> It HAD to bloody happen
> 
> http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-wales-north-east-wales-20328172


THE PAINTED LADY

I quite like it in a way...

Was trying tyo analyse why I like it, and it comes down to a feeling that at least someone is engaged with the 'has been' beautiful hull, and she is getting some attention. The murals are also attractive and skillfully done.

Whatever they do to her, I still have a bank of memories, most of them very pleasant.

Re the gent at the beginning of this thread asking about the ' Duke of Lancaster' circa 1953. That would have been a previous one, as the 'Painted Lady' in North Wales was built around 1958.


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## Mad Landsman

Alan Rawlinson said:


> Are your pics of the "Lancaster " posted online anywhere? I would be very interested to see them.....


Try this website which I came across -  HERE


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## Alan Rawlinson

Many thanks for the link

Great pics and many shipmates from long ago! Quiet weird being transported back suddenly - just like a time warp in the movies or Doctor Who!


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## Basil

> The Master was a good friend of mine - Capt. ( Daddy) Greenwood, and he had been guiding her in for 15 years plus without incident, and this happened during the last few weeks of his career.


Poor guy; I feel for him. 
Although, at sea, I was an engineer, I retired as a B747 captain and the chances of a pre-retiral incident did cross my mind. We almost had one when the first officer, to whom I'd given the landing, demonstrated a slight lack of understanding that the aeroplane is not necessarily proceeding in the direction in which it is pointing 

I wonder if any of the modern cruise ships have used jolly 'street art' around, e.g., water discharges etc?


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## Alan Rawlinson

Basil said:


> Poor guy; I feel for him.
> Although, at sea, I was an engineer, I retired as a B747 captain and the chances of a pre-retiral incident did cross my mind. We almost had one when the first officer, to whom I'd given the landing, demonstrated a slight lack of understanding that the aeroplane is not necessarily proceeding in the direction in which it is pointing
> 
> I wonder if any of the modern cruise ships have used jolly 'street art' around, e.g., water discharges etc?


Hallo Basil

It's not street art, but the AIDA Cruise Lines of Germany have very colourful art on the hulls - believe it is a mouth on the bow ( reminiscent of WW2 American fighter planes) and a coloured logo on the outside hull. Cheers the place up, no end!

On the question of pre-retirement accidents, I always think of the similarity with parking the car in the home driveway. It can be performed thousands of times, and for umpteen years, but it doesn't stop an accident in an unguarded moment - backing into a tree or wall etc! and that's without a drink.

Love your 747 stories. Now that I don't fly much. that is!


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## ALAN TYLER

Not a great lover of this sort of art, but as others have said the old girl is at least getting some attention.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Duke of Lancaster - happier days 1964*

Picture of self on the bridge in Lisbon during a cruise in 1964.


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## MikeGDH

Alan Rawlinson said:


> Picture of self on the bridge in Lisbon during a cruise in 1964.


hi Alan...did you get my PM ref Ted Greenwood?
Regards & HNY!
Mike.


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## Alan Rawlinson

I have written up a few Sealink anecdotes from the 60's in Heysham Harbour and Irish Sea ports in my ebook called 'Any budding sailors? '. The book is BankLine/Sealink/Brostrom shipping company experiences and a later career offshore and all over the place! All the photos can be seen on a blog which is called. bankline.wordpress.com.


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## 6639

Alan Rawlinson said:


> I have written up a few Sealink anecdotes from the 60's in Heysham Harbour and Irish Sea ports in my ebook called 'Any budding sailors? '. The book is BankLine/Sealink/Brostrom shipping company experiences and a later career offshore and all over the place! All the photos can be seen on a blog which is called. bankline.wordpress.com.


did you know Captain Mills, who used to take command of her.

neil.


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## Alan Rawlinson

nhp651 said:


> did you know Captain Mills, who used to take command of her.
> 
> neil.


Hallo Neil

Yes, knew him well and have fond memories of our time together. He was always called Lancelot Mills and nothing derogatory. We sailed together a lot with me as chief Officer, particularly on the old cattle boats. He became a bit of a father figure to me because of the age difference, and would offer career advise. 

Do you have any news. Are you perhaps related.

Cheers/Alan


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Duke of Lancaster*

Here she is in happier days.....


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## Supercargo

http://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/petition-launched-scrap-former-flintshire-11983944


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## TommyRob

Sad to see a once great ship in that condition but it had to be inevitable. If she can be properly prepared an artificial reef may be the solution. We could do with a few in our waters.


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## meechingman

The 'properly prepared' part might be the problem, or the artificial reef might be nearer to the shore than you'd want.

Sad to see her like that, the Dukes were handsome ships.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Sealink in the sixties - article published in Sea Breezes 10/16*

1960's Sealink 
Heysham to Belfast service 
Some personal memories, by Alan Arthur Rawlinson .




The busy little port of Heysham in Lancashire, tucked away in Morecambe Bay, was home to seven vessels owned and run by Sealink during the 1960’s . They were two recently purpose built container vessels, a couple of old ‘Slieve‘ cattle boats, stalwarts of the Irish sea powered by steam turbines, and the rather splendid and proud mail steamers built for the service in 1956. They were the Dukes of Lancaster, Rothesay, and Argyll, sleek and fast, and deemed fit for Spring and Autumn cruising either side of the busy summer schedule. Destinations – The Scottish west coast, Scandinavia, and Spain and Portugal .
All of the above vessels were employed on the nightly run to Belfast and staffed by a dedicated pool of officers, some from Belfast, but the majority based on the Heysham side. 
The service was operated by Sealink, previously British Rail, and anyone arriving from deep sea would find some of the rules and practices quaint, if not downright odd. A rapid adjustment was called for.
I arrived in 1961 fresh from the Bank Line and the truly global service covered by that fleet. A greater contrast would be hard to find! It took some herculean mental adjustments, and the nightly routine would have been comical if it wasn’t a livelihood that was at stake, and needed to be made. As a new arrival, I was appointed third Mate of one of the container vessels – the ingeniously named ‘ Container Enterprise’ She was a smart little vessel of 984 tons gross and driven by a single screw diesel engine. All of the deck officers in the harbour were holding Master’s F.G. Certificates, except for one or two home trade men who were barred from serving on the mail steamers for some reason. The accommodation was functional and adequate without being lavish. Cargo both ways consisted totally of BR type containers, the ones with a curved roof, built presumably for ease of access to tunnels. We were in the era just prior to the worldwide growth of ISO containers which swept the shipping industry and killed off many of the traditional and long established liner companies with It, sooner or later, Bank Line included. They were unable to cope, and went into decline. The mantra became ‘adapt or die’ and many chose to merge and form consortia, where they largely lost their identity anyway.

In our cosy world, a million miles from reality, or so it seemed, the shore workers stowed the railway containers for both outward and return trips, finishing off on deck, where curved retaining struts held the 16 deck units without the need for lashings. However, these little ships rolled excessively. The stowage configuration made little difference, and in exasperation the Masters raised the subject with Head Office based at Euston Square in London , who sent ‘ experts ‘ up to the ship equipped with special gyroscopic roll indicators contained in a box. The box was secured in the chartroom, and off we went. It happened to be a rough night, just perfect for the evaluation, and the ship performed as expected, causing the recording needle to eventually slide off the paper edge and spoil the recording. The claim of excessive rolling had been made in a spectacular fashion. The operators were badly affected by seasickness and chose not to return with us back to Heysham, but instead they cadged a lift on the stabilised Mail boat. Nothing therefore changed to improve the rolling characteristics, and life continued as before. In the wheelhouse, it was possible to wedge oneself between the radar pedestal and the bulkhead, and by this means I was reasonably comfortable, swinging in a wild arc. These little workhorses served the route well for a number of years without serious incident. They had little reserve power however, and soon slowed when faced with adverse weather. One thing learned in the first year in the harbour was that a nightly sailing was obligatory. Never mind the wind or the state of the sea, and this attitude led to some ill judged nights when sailing should have been deferred with hindsight, on account of the prevailing weather. 

These two vessels ploughed backwards and forwards quite reliably between the north side of Heysham harbour over to the Herdman channel berth in Belfast without any outside interference. The service operated like clockwork. The system of promotion in the harbour was strictly laid down and apart from wrecking the ship, or burning the place down, you moved up in the proverbial ‘dead man’s shoes ‘ . In practice, moves came reasonably quickly, as people decided to move on, or take a job in pilotage, for example. Many newcomers chose to go back to deep sea routes, unhappy with the monotony. This sometimes led to reminders being sent out from the office if a move up was not claimed, or overlooked. The author had one such letter which carried a threat to promote the next man down if a claim was not made immediately. Seniority was permanently fixed, and an example was two Masters who stayed 25 years or more with one senior to the other although they had joined just one day apart! The rotation around the ships in the harbour meant that the Masters of the Container vessels were often newly promoted Chief Officers from the mail boats and they had successfully worked their way round the harbour before achieving that elevated status. The speed at which this was done was purely down to luck, and the joining date. No pilot was involved in berthing, the Master having passed the relevant pilotage exams or exemptions for both Heysham and Belfast. It did involve a certain amount of natural nervousness , however. An example occurred when turning into Heysham one morning from the main channel, and the Master, who was a jumpy sort at the best of times, made a judgement call to nip across the bow of a tanker slowly aiming for the tanker berth on the outside wall. When beam on and under her bow, the tanker started blasting her horn, and the Master wavered. Urging him on, I recall a very close shave being personally anxious to get ashore. I still urged him on, and only later realised how I had stupidly come close to causing an emergency. We sheered off at the last second and everyone took a deep breath.

There were tense moments on the bridge arriving in Belfast Lough each morning, due to the railway obsession with trains and timekeeping. This meant that we were not allowed to be more than 5 minutes either side of the schedule on arrival. Anything outside of this led to questions or worse. The whole trip was pre planned with engine revolutions increased or lowered on request from the bridge to maintain timekeeping . Despite this, it happened that sometimes we were way ahead of schedule, when it was necessary to take a slow round turn outside of the Lough. It also happened that a desperate mate one morning took to altering all the clocks by 5 minutes, and was quickly rumbled by the suspicious Master when he came out bleary eyed to the bridge. On the mail ' Duke' boats, timing was complicated by usually arriving at the channel at the same time as the Liverpool ferry, Ulster Queen or her sisters. The ship always entered the channel stern first, and proceeded using a bow rudder, unlocked on the Focs'le. A smaller bridge faced aft, and the swing involved the bridge party walking aft and conning the ship from that position. Vying for the first swing around and access to the buoyed channel often involved a race up Belfast Lough.

The ‘cattle Boats’ were 1930’s built, and were veterans of the Irish Sea, battling through all weathers regardless. The Heysham ones usually were the Slieve Bearnagh, and the Slieve Bawn, part of a larger fleet, and named after the mountains of Ireland, and they were straight stemmed war horses in my eyes.

Outward to Belfast it was breakbulk cargo of the old variety, boxes, cartons, and bundles. Most of it looked like it was destined for Woolworths, and on the return journey we carried cattle, pigs, and horses . Due to their age, life on board these ships could be less than comfortable, but there was something dependable and likeable in their appearance and longevity. Unlike her sister, the Slieve Bearnagh had not been upgraded or modified in my time, and being a shelter deck design, she had a peculiar feature in having a small tonnage hatch which was on the foredeck. It was hinged and let in mountains of water on the worst nights, flooding the shelter deck and causing excessive damage to the cartons and boxes stowed there , when they would float freely, choking up the scuppers. One extreme night in 1964, the whole deck was flooded to waist height, the main deck accommodation was also flooded, and the journey normally approx. 10 hours, took 20 hours of painful slog around the Isle of Man, and across to Belfast . It was the practice on the bridge to change watch halfway, when passing the Point of Aye on the tip of the Isle of Man, and on this particular night it meant almost 12 hours on watch, before collapsing into a bunk. This particular bunk happened to be aligned athwartships, and due to the heavy rolling my head and feet would curl up with the motion. Some water sloshed backwards and forwards on the cabin floor, and items floated freely, but sleep soon came ! The Master, a noted dour man, never said a word all night. Considering that it had been nigh impossible to stand on the quay prior to sailing, and the waves were piling through the entrance to the harbour, it was hard to fathom the logic, if any, of sailing at all. Although unproven, it seems likely that there was an unspoken pride and competition between the individual Masters. No one wanted to be seen to be chicken. 

The return leg was always weather sensitive, due to the livestock. Horses are extremely jumpy in poor weather, and it often happened that the crew members stood holding the horses heads on a bad night, volunteering to give up their time off watch. Many of the crew were from farming stock in Ireland, and had a strong empathy with horses in particular. Pigs squealed of course, especially when loading them in Belfast. This often happened round about the evening meal time, and the distressed squealing could spoil a meal for the more sensitive officers. Cattle went into pens, and could normally be carried without incident except on very bad nights when they would slip and slide around in the fresh dung and occasionally break a leg. Up in the Mate’s cabin was a so called ‘humane killer’ which consists of a steel pin which was fired through a hole in the front plate and into the animals skull. I often wondered if I was the only one who fantasied about it’s use on some of my more difficult ship mates! A vet. would meet the ship on arrival on bad nights and would dispose of any casualties on the cattle deck, so the killer gun was rarely used in my time.

One feature on the bridge which took some getting used to on these old steam turbine ships was the delay between ordering an engine movement and the actual effect . This could be a bit hair raising when berthing and nothing happened when the telegraph was rung, say, for full astern. There would be a characteristic delay and then an increasing whine from the skylight as the turbine gathered speed, and the propeller started to turn.

In the normal order of things, the evenings in the harbour followed the same pattern more or less like clockwork. First, the container vessel would sail at 7pm. Around 9pm, the cattle boat would sail, and at 11pm the Mail boat would leave. This happened when the trains had arrived from London, and the station master blew his whistle! We were part of the railway, and this was proof . 

Summer nights were special. Firstly, and especially at bank holidays, two mail boats would sail together. They tied up abreast with short gangways joining the two ships, and passengers were free to decide which vessel they would like to travel on. Bear in mind this was all long before today’s strict security measures. Firstly, counting passengers on board was a very slack affair, using hand held counters operated by crew members. As the trains disgorged hoards of passengers in Heysham, it was common for them to surge on board, often climbing over the rail, rather than via the gangways provided. The official total per vessel was 1800, 600 in First, and 1200 in second class, but it is safe to say this was often grossly exceeded, but fortunately without any particular ill effects. The Duke of Lancaster (presently rotting away on a beach in north Wales) and her sisters were stabilised by fins which were activated from the bridge, and which were very effective. On the rare occasions when the mechanism went wrong and they got out of sync. with the motion, it could be alarming. In those 60’s days, the passenger cars were still being lifted on and off with cranes, and the conversion which added a car ramp was not to be ordered until the end of that decade. We were also still in the era of third and first class accommodation, and passengers were separated by steel mesh barriers. The attitude to passengers comfort by management left a lot to be desired, and the author happened to be interviewed for a position ashore in London titled something like ‘passenger liason officer’ At this interview which ended prematurely, I suggested disposing of the class culture and making a move to ' one class'. This had been prompted by a recent trip to Sweden and trips on the Scandinavian ferries which opened my eyes to more gentile travelling. One class, fresh flowers on the dining tables, and a general atmosphere so much better that the ones I was used to. My suggestion caused near apoplexy by the interviewing chairman and the interview itself terminated early!

Summer night sailings could be very eventful, due to overcrowding in the bars, and drunkenness which often got out of hand. Fights were common, when there would be a call to the bridge for assistance. The officers were experienced in these situations and each had their way of dealing with the call out. A system of ‘ farmers’ was worked which meant that the watch keeping for the whole trip was carried out by two officers and the third slept in, and was on call for incidents, i.e. he had the ‘farmer’s ‘ watch. Most preferred to being on actual bridge watch, rather than face the uncertainty of being called out. It could mean leaving a warm bunk to man the lifeboat on rare occasions when necessary . Some excited passengers regularly climbed over the rail to stand on the wide wooden ' belting' a few feet down which was a feature on most ferries of the time. It protected the sides with the regular bumps on berthing. When the worst happened and they slipped, the person often could not be found in the dark. The ordinary drunks were regularly restrained, and handed over to the police on arrival. My technique, which I perfected from experience, was to handcuff them to the rail which ran around the funnel on the upper deck. A few hours like this worked wonders, and they were mostly contrite, shivering, and hungry at the time of berthing on arrival. I would joke that it was all in the ticket price! One of the Master’s in my time on the Duke of Lancaster suggested an alternative, locking a particular drunk in the steel mail room, and this was done. When the doors were opened on arrival however, he had spent the night tearing up thousands of letters and opening parcels. We never tried this method again.


Cruising on the ‘ Duke of Lancaster’ was a plumb job, but not particularly sought after by the married men, who had chosen the ferry job to spend as much time as possible with their families. For me as a bachelor it was great, and I enjoyed many of them as third mate, with a change of scenery, and very light duties. These included making announcements over the Tannoy, and I soon became adept at making banal announcements like - “ Ladies and Gentlemen, Basking sharks may be seen on the Starboard bow”. Other duties included lecturing the passengers about emergency procedures during boat station drills. I was very nervous the first time around, standing on a chair looking at a sea of faces, but soon got into the way of things, and was asked to tone down the situations that my vivid imagination was conjuring up of potential fire, smoke, heeling, and flooding. The poor old dears were inclined to panic. These regular cruises attracted the same people year after year, creating a club atmosphere. The Bosun would joke that they were kept in railway sidings at Crewe during the winter!

Major incidents were mercifully few, but one blustery morning in 1965, the Duke of Lancaster grounded when swinging into Heysham Harbour stern first. It was a misjudgement hard to understand, as the Master, a good friend, had been doing the same manoeuvre for nearly 20 years without a slip. Standing on the Foc'sle looking aft, preparing to berth, it was a slow motion accident as we crabbed sideways on to the rocks. Then followed a period grinding and crunching as the wind and tide bounced the ship up and down, the shuddering and shaking being felt through the feet. Luckily we were soon able to be pulled off by tugs, aided by a rising tide. We
drydocked for repairs in Holyhead. Beneath the ship in drydock, I was amazed to see the damage, steel plates buckled, and indents shaped like the inside of tin helmets and with some rocks still embedded! In many areas, the steel was not broken and looked for all the world like plasticine. I also later visited the grounding site just outside of the massive granite ' roundheads' guarding the entrance to Heysham Harbour. The red paint from the plates was all over the jagged rocks.
Looking back at those 60's days in Heysham, life went on in a routine way, with most officers treating the service as an interruption to their home and social life! The railway company were generous in their treatment of staff, and in no time I found myself serving as Chief Officer on the mail boats. In between I had managed to obtain a B.Sc in Maritime Studies, the first on offer, and in addition to free first class travel, my seniority had been preserved during the study years, a really generous deal, I felt.
We sailed without all the kit available today on modern ferries, but mariners are, and always have been, adaptable. There were no side thrusters, which would have been useful. Instead an ' offing wire' secured in the harbour bed served for heaving off the bow when leaving. Also, no fast rescue boat, only the big ***bersome lifeboats, AND no walkie talkies or smart phones. We used a whistle. Happy days!

A fuller account of the author's time in Sealink, and in the Bank Line, can be read in the Kindle ebook, published by Amazon called ' Any Budding Sailors? '


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## David Campbell

Alan. You have made my day reading about Belfast and Heysham.

I have your Book " Any Budding Sailors" and as I have said before can heartily recommend it. Keep Posting. David.


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## Barrie Youde

Seen from a distance, across the Dee Estuary, it now seems that she has a black hull.


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## Duncan112

Yes, she has been repainted - there is rumour of a film being shot and also a ghost hunt on board later this year - if you go on Facebook there is an active Duke of Lancaster Appreciation Society with plenty of photographs.


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## Barrie Youde

Thank you, Duncan.

What a sad fate for a good looking ship.


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## Alan Rawlinson

Just found the " Duke of Lancaster appreciation society" on Facebook. Looks like the old girl is heading for a new career and a makeover. I'm envious!

Thanks Duncan for pointing the way....


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Sea Breezes article*



Alan Rawlinson said:


> Just found the " Duke of Lancaster appreciation society" on Facebook. Looks like the old girl is heading for a new career and a makeover. I'm envious!
> 
> Thanks Duncan for pointing the way....


The Oct 2017 issue of Sea Breezes will have an article about a typical Heysham to Belfast sailing in the 60's. Some nice photos too.


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## Supercargo

https://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/duke-lancaster-ships-zombie-experience-16931933


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## D1566

Supercargo said:


> https://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/duke-lancaster-ships-zombie-experience-16931933


Hope they can make some progress before it dissolves


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## Barrie Youde

A sad turn of events for a fine ship.


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## Basil

Some time ago:
President: "Ladies and gentlemen, The Queen!"
Chap across from me: "The Duke of Lancaster!"
Bas: (Thinks) 'What? Don't say anything before you've looked it up.'

A week later: 'Ah, now I see.'


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## tom roberts

I sailed on the maiden voyage of the Rose of Lancashire a bloody death trap of a ship built in the U.K. I reckon that even in her present state the Duke would be a preferred vessel to be on.


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## 6639

painted by a good friend of mine for his father some good number of years ago...…………..Duke of Lancaster on her acceptance trials.

his father was one of her captains whilst on the Heysham to Belfast run.


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## Alan Rawlinson

nhp651 said:


> painted by a good friend of mine for his father some good number of years ago...…………..Duke of Lancaster on her acceptance trials.
> 
> his father was one of her captains whilst on the Heysham to Belfast run.


Lovely painting - it's a treasure to have.

Which Master was the artist's father? I sailed with them all pretty well and here is a picture of them with only 2 or 3 missing.
Rgds/Alan R


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## 6639

hi Alan i only ever met his dad once and can't remember his Christian name, but the surname is MILLS, they lived, and his son still lives in Slyne with Hest near Lancaster.......his son is called Harry...…...had lunch with him and his lovely wife only a month or so ago.
it was around 1972-73 that I met his dad...…...long time ago.

is captain mills on that photo, if so would you mind if I copied it to give to my friend. thank you.


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Lancelot Mills*



nhp651 said:


> hi Alan i only ever met his dad once and can't remember his Christian name, but the surname is MILLS, they lived, and his son still lives in Slyne with Hest near Lancaster.......his son is called Harry...…...had lunch with him and his lovely wife only a month or so ago.
> it was around 1972-73 that I met his dad...…...long time ago.
> 
> is captain mills on that photo, if so would you mind if I copied it to give to my friend. thank you.


Thrilled to get your message, as Captain Mills was both Master in the harbour, and a friend who helped me with advice etc when I was wavering whether to stay or go in a different direction. We always called him Lancelot Mills, but not sure if this was a true forename. He is on the extreme left in the photo, and please feel free to pass it on. Please also give my best wishes to his son and family. Lovely to catch up on this....


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## JennieJA

Hello Alan,
I’m using the time during this horrible virus lockdown to gather information for my family tree. My uncle, Neville Stirzaker (my mother’s brother) was born, lived and died in Fleetwood. He was never married and so much of the Fleetwood side of my Family history was lost with his passing, as has this line of the Stirzaker name ended with no male heirs.
For many years, I can remember seeing a framed photo of him at the helm of the Duke of Lancaster. It sat proudly on the wall at the top of the stairs. 
Any photos, anecdotes or personal history you can help me with would be most gratefully appreciated. 
Thank you.


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## Alan Rawlinson

JennieJA said:


> Hello Alan,
> I’m using the time during this horrible virus lockdown to gather information for my family tree. My uncle, Neville Stirzaker (my mother’s brother) was born, lived and died in Fleetwood. He was never married and so much of the Fleetwood side of my Family history was lost with his passing, as has this line of the Stirzaker name ended with no male heirs.
> For many years, I can remember seeing a framed photo of him at the helm of the Duke of Lancaster. It sat proudly on the wall at the top of the stairs.
> Any photos, anecdotes or personal history you can help me with would be most gratefully appreciated.
> Thank you.


Hi Jennie

You're in luck because I do have a few snaps - and many memories! For starters, on a cruise to Denmark and the Kiel Canal he lost his false teeth somehow but made light of it, telling the passengers at boat drill , " There's a fish somewhere swimming round the Ocean with a big smile"!

I will send you a pm with the pics.
very best wishes/Alan R


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Neville Stirzaker*

Jennie

A few snaps from the files....
B Wishes/Alan R

Having a few problems! Hold on


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## Alan Rawlinson

*Neville Stirzaker*

Pics?


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## Supercargo

https://www.dailypost.co.uk/news/north-wales-news/duke-lancaster-dock-could-brought-18453983


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## Supercargo

Supercargo said:


> Duke of Lancaster dock could be brought back to life as part of ambitious plans to boost tourism


Duke of Lancaster owner blasts urban explorers for breaking into the ship by 'scaling the anchor chain' - North Wales Live (dailypost.co.uk)


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## P.Arnold

I visited the “Mostyn Funship” in the 80’s. Then she was on the ‘old’ Welsh coast road from Queensferry, Prestatyn, Rhyl , etc, the main route to the North Wales Coast resorts.
Then the A55 Welsh expressway to Anglesey was built, taking much of the tourist traffic away from Mostyn.
At the time I recall there was certain amusement facilities on board, slot machines etc.
Can’t remember much more.


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## Supercargo

Supercargo said:


> Duke of Lancaster owner blasts urban explorers for breaking into the ship by 'scaling the anchor chain' - North Wales Live (dailypost.co.uk)


Man pictured climbing Duke of Lancaster anchor chain as police make burglary appeal - North Wales Live (dailypost.co.uk)


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## Supercargo

Supercargo said:


> Man pictured climbing Duke of Lancaster anchor chain as police make burglary appeal - North Wales Live (dailypost.co.uk)


Duke of Lancaster ship to feature in ITV drama starring Sir Lenny Henry - North Wales Live (dailypost.co.uk)


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