# Help with Unimate 1 lathe.



## lazyjohn (Mar 3, 2011)

I recently bought a nearly unused, 'Unimate 1 Classic' combi-lathe at auction. One third the price of a new one.

We live in a small retirement flat and my kitchen doubles as my workshop, so no chance of any type of fixed machines or machine shop.

Having routinely worked to 1/100 mm during my days developing batteries for Eveready, I am well aware of the shortcomings of this type of machine as far as metal engineering work goes.

I plan to do model making, mainly with wood, plastic and soft metal and would be very grateful for comments please.

What sort of accuracy can I expect to get?

Any tips on reducing backlash?

What is the most useful add on tool I can make?


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## Shipbuilder (Jun 30, 2005)

I suppose it depends on whether you are going to make working models such as small engines, or just something to look at. I have used a Unimat SL for over 35 years and found it excellent. But I mainly make things just to look at. I find it of great assistance to use only drill chucks, one at each end. As the lathe is small, I find the drill chuck has advantages of the standard type where jaws stick out of the rim. I would occasionally catch my finder on the projecting jaws that was always painful and could result in a broken nail, but nothing too serious. If I occasionally accidentally touch the drill chuck, I survive the encounter undamaged. I know you should take care not to touch it when in use, but very occasionally, it does happen over the years! Occasionally, I have made thgings that need to work and found the lathe OK. But it is the only lathe I have ever used, so I really don't know any better.
Spare parts can still be obtained via Ebay, usually from the USA.
It can be turned int a drill press, but years ago, I found it too much trouble to change it and got a separate one. There is also a circular saw attachment, but I haven't got one.
I fitted a removable pointer to above the main chuck with the pointer hovering close above the key notches in the chuck. With the lathe disconnected from the power, I use the notches as a simple dividing head for marking small pieces of work.
For woodworking, I swing the tool post right round, laying the long shaft of the metalworking tool alongside the work for use as a tool rest.
Bob


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## lazyjohn (Mar 3, 2011)

Thanks shipbuilder, 
I will be making static models. I suspect I won't reach your standard though.

Fortunately the machine comes with 3 & 4 jaw chucks, wood turning face plates, rolling centres and tools to match. Everything suplied in a fitted box 16"x18"x8". Very small but perfectly formed.

I like your advice and have now ordered an extra drill chuck. I particularly like the dividing head idea.

Once again, many thanks!


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## Trevane (Mar 30, 2008)

Hello "lazyjohn",
Congratulations on getting a Unimat 1, I've had a Unimat SL for about 35 years.
They are a great aid for modellers, but like so many items they do come with a learning curve.
There is a fine Unimate forum of knowledgable and helpful people at [email protected]

You ask "What sort of accuracy can I get?". That probably depends more on you than on the machine. 1/100 mm is more accurate than most items require except for example, a sliding fit of two parts.
A 1/100th mm cut, often referred to as "A gnats whisker" just needs a bit of care, a correctly set sharp tool, and a delicate touch.

What is the most useful add-on tool depends quite a lot on what you need to do and how often you think you will need to do it.

There are few real shortcomings with this machine beyond its size. Just don't expect to remove metal at a high rate. It is a hobbyist's machine, not a commercial workshop money maker.

Machining plastics requires a sharp tool with a good amount of top rake (correctly set of course) and low revs. You need to cut the plastic, not melt it into a soft blob. 
Trevor


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## richsemc (Oct 26, 2011)

Hi all, just joined
I searched the internet for 3 days looking for a drill chuck for the unimat sl lather and I finally found www.tomstoolstore.com and have just purchased a new drill chuck 12mm * 1 for $40 and he's posting it straight away, very good service worth emailing him if you need any parts [email protected] not all of his items are on his ebay site


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## Gulpers (Sep 8, 2005)

*Welcome*

richsemc,

On behalf of the SN Moderating Team, a warm welcome aboard from the Isle of Anglesey!
You seem to have settled in nicely so I hope you thoroughly enjoy your time on SN and get many happy hours entertainment from your membership. *(Thumb)


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## Shipbuilder (Jun 30, 2005)

Richsemc

Thanks for that very useful link. I have used a Unimat for many years now and had an awful time finding a replacement chuck a couple of years ago. Tom's tool store seems to have evertything one needs to keep an old Unimat running for years to come.

It is the only lathe I have ever used, or ever want to use!

Bob


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## R58484956 (Apr 19, 2004)

Greetings *Richsemc* and welcome to* SN*. Bon voyage and good turning.


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## GWB (Jul 11, 2007)

Welcome aboard enjoy the trip. As to your Unimat and the accuracy you will get bepends mainly upon your skill, to get the accuracy you are talking is grinding.
Having worked and repaired them for several years I can assure you that even in the original set up the failing was the bench they were sold with was not stiff enough to keep the bed straight. Best on a very good and solid bench, all parts ie chuck ect. are standard off the self, ie morse taper Jacbos type chuck. 
Cheers 
GWB


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## KevinR (Jan 5, 2006)

I bought my first Unimat SL in Singapore about 40 years ago, and had it fitted into a teak case by a local Chinese joiner. I have nearly all of the accessories and these are fitted onto the inside of the lid. As a marine engineer/ship modeller, the lathe has travelled with me all over the world for some 30 years and I have used it to make all the deck fittings for many models(even all the stanchions at 1/100 scale, all with 3 holes for threading the handrails through.)
Several of my glass-cased models,all at 1/100 scale, have been bought by the Companies I have worked for for very good prices!
I think the most useful accessory by far, is a foot switch/speed controller. This allows two-handed working, with the speed precisely controlled by a foot. Next useful has to be the 4-jaw chuck, followed by the dividing attachment. Some years ago, I bought two more SL lathes; one is in the attic as a standby in case the regular one breaks down, and the other is permanently rigged as a circular saw in the garage.
Superb machines!!


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