# Shatt El Arab



## Tony Shaw

Does anybody have any stories to tell of those bygone ports on the Shatt El Arab, such as Basra, Khorramshahr, Abadan, Fao, etc. I don't think anybody could associate romance with any of them, but I visited those ports over a 6 year period, and, amongst other things, I wish I'd taken more photographs. (Only had a Kodak 'Brownie' Box at the time ! which I had to place on the taffrail to keep it steady !) Met some very interesting people along the way.


----------



## sparkie2182

Couldn't take piccies when i was there in the late 70's early 80's.
Both Iraq and Iran were on a war footing and highly suspicious of outsiders.
My main recollection is of date palm trees for as far as the eye could see, not much else.


----------



## price

In 1967 I was on the Iranian flag ships Khododad Vananca and the Darvish Vananca, although our port of registry was Bandar Abbas, our home port was Khorramshar, we spent a lot of time there swinging on the hook at the mouth of the River Khorram with a boat and boatman ready to ferry anyone who wished to go ashore or come back on board. Our favourite evening haunt was the Anahita Hotel, a former Sheiks' palace where, we could leisurely dine and sup in the courtyard. Our regular run was loading drums of bitumen from The Iranian Oil Refinery in Abadan for discharge at various ports for the construction of the Trucial Oman Highway, the normal discharge ports were Doha, Dubai Abu Dhabi and Ras al Khaima, with the occasional stop at Jazirat Das. We sometimes loaded cement at Basrah for Kuwait and once to Bandar Abbas. When carrying out repairs/maintanance we would lie on no. 27 berth Abadan. 
Bruce.


----------



## trotterdotpom

Loaded a full cargo of bagged dates in Basrah (about 1975). Basrah was a bit of a dump but at least you could get a drink there and I spent an inordinate amount of time looking for a place called the "Chinese Garden" where you were supposed to be able to get a "bag off" - for the unitiiated, that is not a spelling mistake, I do not mean a "bag off dates". Sadly I never found it. I could have had a date with a local boatman who rowed us back to the ship one night - after fluttering my eyelids and making a few promises I had no intention of keeping, I was able to pay him in Brazilian Cruceros (sp?).

We sailed for Shanghai with an Iraqi pilot - the courtesy flag going up and down as we switched between the hostile states of Iraq and Iran running down the river.

As we passed Abadan, the anchored ships were swinging with the tide and we bumped into one! Only slight damage but we had to stop and exchange names of insurance companies, etc. The pilot was mortified and spewed his guts up over the bridge wing, just before the Iranian authorities came on board and took him away. Not sure if the penalty for having a collision was "stoning" or what. After a day or so, we sailed again, presumably with an Iranian pilot this time (my memory is sketchy here), but it wasn't long before we were aground on a sandbank! After another day or so hanging around, in the fullness of tide, we set off again and made it safely past Fao and off to China, which is another story.

John T.


----------



## Pat Thompson

Greetings,

I was there a number of times in WHSN's Kepwickhall as Apprentice in 1963-43. We used to go to Khoramshahr to discharge allongside and then up to Basrah for final discharge thence on to buoys at Maquil (spelling dubious) up near Basrah airporort to load dates at the start of the homeward leg. On our way back downriver we would anchor off Khoramshahr to load cotton then we we were homeward bound. The ship had to be swung at every tide as the river was too narrow to swing unaided. It was just hard over and a kick ahead and once the stern was clear a kick astern.

On the wharf at Khoramshahr there was a bar, know as "Rosie's Cantina" (remember Marty Robbins, "El Paso", very popular at the time) that used to sell the most revolting beer I ever had the misfortune to drink and Vodka (???) which we reckoned came from an illicit tap on the aviation spirit line down at Abadan.

The Iranial loading master rode a BSA B31 (350cc single) which he would let me ride providing I stayed in the port area, great fun.

In Basrah there was the British Club where you could go for a beer, tepid Orangeboom and Heineken. The building was, as I remember, a largish detached building in a palm tree shaded garden.

And by the way, don't forget the sandstorms on the river where the visibility dropped to almost zero and you had to anchor untill it cleared. You then spent the next few days removing the sand from the accomodation.


----------



## slick

All,
I served my time up and down the Gulf with Hain's (1958-1963) on charter to Stricks and the Dutch company VNS (please don't ask me to spell it out, after all it is Sunday morning!)
On the MV Trevelyan we were at Fao discharging pipes and railway lines (?) and I fell sick it was necessary for me to be taken up to Basrah to see the Doctor.
The Agent arranged for me to be taken by 'fast black' across the desert, well it was dry and dusty.
I was duly seen by the Doctor told it was nothing serious and was parked in a very comfortable well it was when compared to Hain's Apprentices Accommodation.
They could not get a car to take me back to Fao, so the Agent said "We'll send you down the river by boat".
I was taken down to Shatt al Arab at Basra and shown the boat it was a "Felucca" loaded with cargo up on to the deck I seem to remember it was a straw or reed Deck cargo.
Up the plank and a few instructions were passed to the Skipper and I was offered a very comfortable place on the Deck cargo and off we sailed I did not speak Arabic and English was not forthcoming, however I was offered tea and a had a memorable journey.
We arrived at the Trevelyan at about midday the skipper laid his boat alongside her , asneat as has ever been done,the Deck Cargo height of the felucca allowed me to climb over the rail on to the Main Deck in front the crew who were just finishing their lunch with a well deserved cigarette by number four hatch.
Within fifteen minutes I was back on Cargo Watch.
A thank you and a quick wave and my "taxi" was gone, the memory has stayed with me all these years.

Yours aye,

slick


----------



## Rennie Cameron

I recall being on the Rowanmore bound for Korramshar. Unfortuately we took on on Iraqi pilot! The man wouldnt get off. I cant recall how he was ejected, but we spent all night at slow ahead waiting for the right man. He arrived and with the support of two gunboats we made it safely up and alongside. To compound the problem our gunboats broke down on our departure! We were chased by an Iraqi gunboat in open water. Still have the photo which is almost a dot on the horizon. The bridge told the gunboat we would not stop and we would call for assistance. In reply they told us the nearest RN ship was in Mombassa! We were on charter to Iran National Lines with appropriate funnel markings. So we sailed on and took our thimble tube boiler problems to a friendlier place!


----------



## borderreiver

In 1962 The Border Reiver on approaching the outer pilot run by Iran no pilot . In those day the outer pilot was not compulsory, no VHF in those day . so we proceeded to the next pilot station. The RO come on watch to find all the Radio station blasting out calling for us to get out as war had started between Iraq and Iran. A quick turn round and escaped to Mena .
This war only lasted a few days and we back to Abadan to load in summer the seamens swimming pool was home with large blocks of ice in. The ship was not air condition. On later trips the pool was only for the local big wigs.


----------



## Pilot mac

Hated Khorramshar, discharging at anchor and keeping deck cargo watches but also keeping half an eye out in case she started to swing in the unpredictable tide. The river was not wide enough to swing without a little help from the engines. Basra was one of the better Gulf ports, well at least you could get a beer or even go to the cinema. Had my first kebab in Basra (elephants leg type).And now especially for Slick, (I was an ex Hains apprentice) the last 'Trefusis' ended her days on this god awful river, she got caught up in the First Gulf War and remained there for several years before being scrapped.

regards
Dave


----------



## Tony Shaw

Dave/
Do you know a chap called John Davies ? He was with Hains before going to Esso where I sailed with him on the Esso small coasters - I used to come into Shoreham with the old "Esso Caernarvon". It's funny that the original Esso berth is now the RMC berth !!
Hope you are well
Regards
Tony


----------



## Peter Eccleson

*Basrah*

We were there on Port Alfred (Capt Twomey) in about 1973 from Buenos Aires. Remember the British Club and also all of the anti-American slogans painted on the warehouses on the quayside. What a dump! Also remember the occasional dead animal floating down the river and the brown sandy water.


----------



## Gareth Jones

I was at Basrah sometime in the 70's - I can remember watching some soldiers with rifles taking pot shots at any Iranians who dared show up across the river - I also remember watching a guy on a barge pizzing in the water whilst his mate further along down the barge had a tin on a string and was lifting up water and drinking it !
Miserable place.


----------



## Peter Martin

*Khorramshar & Abadan*

When I was 3rd mate on the Al Jaberiah (KSCo) in the early 70's, we were discharging steel from Japan at Abadan. I developed, or caught, a nasty stomach infection which caused me to be carted off to the local hospital and laid up there for 2 or 3 days. Being rather cautious in what I ate, a rather nice cook disappeared and returned with a plate of minced beef & mashed potato. after three days without it was a banquet. I was discharged back to the ship that evening and was back on deck watch the next day. I bought a silver ring from a small jeweller nar to the dock. This has an inlay of the Shah's crown in it and I was told that the design came from Persopolis, the ancient capital. I still have it.


----------



## Klaatu83

Once, when I was on a ship at Bandar Shahpur (Now Bandar Khomeini), one of our crew found the time to make a side trip up to Abadan. While there he managed to buy a genuine Persian carpet, which he wasted no time in showing off to the rest of us. He was extremely voluble about the quality of the hand-made workmanship, the sort one simply doesn't encounter in America or Europe anymore. While I was looking it over I happened to notice a small tag sewed onto one corner on the bottom, which read, "Made In Belgium".

My most vivid recollection of Bandar Shahpur was of the Iranian longshoremen dropping a pallet of 1000-pound bombs down to the bottom of the cargo hold. I was frankly surprised that they didn't go right through the bottom of the ship! However, some Iranian military officers who witnessed the incident were upset for a different reason. They were annoyed because the bombs didn't explode, and they accused us of delivering a consignment of duds! 

I still have some of the Iranian coins that were left over from that trip. I don't know if they are considered rare, but they all have the Shah's picture on them, so I presume they're no longer in circulation.


----------



## horst ruedel

I remember BarahKorramshar and Abadan very good. I was there in 1962 with the Hansaship "Liebenfels". It was e very hot summer there and before we had to discharge in Kuwait cows, sheeps, goats an camels we got in Massaua.
When we were waiting on the Saht el Arab to get in to the port of Korramshar we had to wait many days. In the night we must look for the river pirats. We tookall aruond the ship big stronglamps and we were night watch with 5 or 6 AB. In Basrawe were not allowed to go on shore, because in that time Kassem was the dictatorof the Irak. I wonder they had hang him later.
It were wild times in the persian golf and we always talk, for every trip to the golf You will get one year free in the jail.


----------



## notnila

trotterdotpom said:


> Loaded a full cargo of bagged dates in Basrah (about 1975). Basrah was a bit of a dump but at least you could get a drink there and I spent an inordinate amount of time looking for a place called the "Chinese Garden" where you were supposed to be able to get a "bag off" - for the unitiiated, that is not a spelling mistake, I do not mean a "bag off dates". Sadly I never found it. I could have had a date with a local boatman who rowed us back to the ship one night - after fluttering my eyelids and making a few promises I had no intention of keeping, I was able to pay him in Brazilian Cruceros (sp?).
> 
> We sailed for Shanghai with an Iraqi pilot - the courtesy flag going up and down as we switched between the hostile states of Iraq and Iran running down the river.
> 
> As we passed Abadan, the anchored ships were swinging with the tide and we bumped into one! Only slight damage but we had to stop and exchange names of insurance companies, etc. The pilot was mortified and spewed his guts up over the bridge wing, just before the Iranian authorities came on board and took him away. Not sure if the penalty for having a collision was "stoning" or what. After a day or so, we sailed again, presumably with an Iranian pilot this time (my memory is sketchy here), but it wasn't long before we were aground on a sandbank! After another day or so hanging around, in the fullness of tide, we set off again and made it safely past Fao and off to China, which is another story.
> 
> John T.


John T
I've just spluttered a cheese sandwich all over my PC.(Jester)


----------



## Tony Shaw

I too remember the dust storms up the Shatt. They were extremely unpleasant as were the long night watches as a cadet watching out for pirates. One night I was on the foc'sle head when a canoe was heading for the anchor cable. I chucked a hatch wedge and my aim must have been good as the canoe beat a hasty retreat. I felt a little guilty though as those wedges are rather heavy ! Yes, and that Persian vodka (arak was it called - the stuff that made you blind according to the mate).I remember drinking some in a little shanty bar just off the jetty at Bandar Shahpour. I almost ended up falling off the jetty with an accordion strapped to my back. Some 'fool' had nipped back to the ship for me to play (sort of !) Just my luck - as I was being 'escorted' back to tghe ship the old man and passenger(ess) saw me and said "Oh look, it's the apprentice". The third mate, who was holding me up said "Quick, get aboard, I thin k the old man has seen you". To which I replied "---- the oldman"
He was a good skipper though, rare in those days, and saw the funny side of it.


----------



## Quiney

Tony Shaw said:


> Does anybody have any stories to tell of those bygone ports on the Shatt El Arab, such as Basra, Khorramshahr, Abadan, Fao, etc. *I don't think anybody could associate romance with any of them*, but I visited those ports over a 6 year period, and, amongst other things, I wish I'd taken more photographs. (Only had a Kodak 'Brownie' Box at the time ! which I had to place on the taffrail to keep it steady !) Met some very interesting people along the way.


My eldest son was conceived on the Ruddbank, whilst at anchor off the Shatt el Arab, waiting to get over the bar and berth at Basra and Khorramshahr.
Romantic enough??


----------



## trotterdotpom

Quiney said:


> My eldest son was conceived on the Ruddbank, whilst at anchor off the Shatt el Arab, waiting to get over the bar and berth at Basra and Khorramshahr.
> Romantic enough??


You tell us!

Most ships spent so much time anchored off there, there was time to conceive and give birth!


Good work though, getting a shot away off the Shatt is no mean feat!

John T


----------



## Cisco

Paid off a ship in 1967(?) when she was anchored off Bandar Shapur.. the ride in an ancient american taxi to Abadan was 'interesting' and a week in a fancy hotel in Abadan waiting for a flight ( Beruit/Athens/Nairobi/Joburg/Capetown) made up in part for the previous 6 months.
However the 2nd mate and master -who had both payed of a few weeks earlier- had ratted the stock of $$$ in the ship.... my cash payoff ( 'she'll be right....the rest is in your bank..') was a few hundred east african shillings and about 20 rand. Oh joy... fun times indeed...


----------

