# Stupid model!



## SimonChristmas (Nov 10, 2015)

Hi all. I know this might be old hat to all you modellers but I have a bit of a balls up so to speak. I am making a wooden kit model as my introduction to modelling. I have spent many hours building so far but have now stopped (telling myself it is a stop for the summer?). 
I have glued and nailed the planks on the hull thinking I can fill any small gaps on completion. First time Ive tried bending these planks and that is the problem. There are quite a few gaps between the planks and they haven't sat quite flat so that it looks as if it is clinker built. I carried on thinking I could sand the extra down when they were all done. Now they are all on, filling gaps doesn't seem to work as there is nothing between the planks. Also, sanding works on the wooden plank but not the brass nails. The plank edges are going super thin as I sand what I can. 
I guess I haven't spent enough time smoothing off the ribs in the first place where the planks fit on?

So....
shall I give up and "accidentally" break what Ive done?
Or, does anyone have any advice to help keep me sane in the winter?


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## Farmer John (Feb 22, 2012)

When I was a youth, the old air-rifle got rid of all the models I made. Some, I wish I had now. Most I don't miss.


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## stein (Nov 4, 2006)

Plastic padding from Loctite, used to fill dents in cars, vil cover quite large gaps, and if you buy some glass fibre mesh to put across the gaps you can fill larger gaps than your boat has room for. And with it you can put a layer on your too thin parts of the hull as well. But it might not stick to all materials, and in some cases it is therefore a good idea to use as grounding the kind of grey base paint in a spray box that is usually to be found beside the plastic padding in well stocked petrol stations. (Besides the light grey paint will show up unevenness quite well, and I know many modellers use it continually during the building process.)

Loctite is a Swedish product distributed both in Britain and Ireland. They have several fillers on the market. I have recently used a box of their Plastic Padding PP-100, and this is a lightweight, easy to sand, filler that might need something harder on top for a perfect finish. I note that Loctite now market a product called "Chemical Wood." I have not tried that one, but understand it is for filling gaps between planks so that the result will look like all wood. 

There are a number of other car-dent-fillers, and similar products on the market; in my experience they are generally too hard for model work, resulting in the problem you have had with the brass nails. But I have no interest in plugging this particular brand, and I invite other modellers to share their experience in this area.


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## rickles23 (Oct 13, 2006)

Hi,

Firstly with the planks: a good soak in warm water helps.

If all else fails go to http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/ 
It's a group of modelers and you can get all kinds of help. There are various sections on different aspects of model boats.

It is free to join.

Regards


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## Chillytoes (Dec 9, 2006)

Really, it depends on how you want to finish the hull. If it's going to be painted all over, then any old filler will do. You can even fill the gaps with sawdust and then apply a bit of super glue. Works as well as anything else. Or you could spline the hull. This involves filling the plank seams with strips. You may have to open the gaps up a bit so the splines are not too thin. Finally, if you want to have a clear finish or varnish, sand the hull smooth and then apply thin planks, cut from sheet, over the top. Since you have a smooth surface, position the new planks seams between the old ones and you should get a good result. This double planking process was quite common.


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## 6639 (Apr 20, 2006)

q1.....have you put a deck on yet.
q2, is the model going to be a working model.
q3 are you near a car components shop such as Halfords.
if answers are, no, yes and yes......


go to Halfords and buy a car grp repair kit...it will contain grp resin, some grp matting and some wire mesh.and you can also buy a small tin of p38 car body polyester filler.

from the inside, cut strips of the wyre mesh to cover the larger holes in the planking and smother it with the filler, and then "glue" the strips over the holes using the filler to set the mesh.
once these have set, cut the grp matting into useable strips that fit between the frames.place into the gaps and then stipple resin [ not forgetting to add and mix well the catylist hardener and stipple it into the planks......this matting will hold the planking in place from the inside.

once the hull has been stabalised from the inside, you can fill the smaller holes in the planking with the p38 filler, and then its just a long and labourious job to sand it all smooth......it will however not then need any more waterproofing and can be painted.

hope this helps.

neil.


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## Paul Braxton (Jul 21, 2005)

Hi Simon. What's the model you're trying to make, may I ask? I bought the kitset for the Eaglemoss "Endeavour" a while back, like you, my first foray into the mysterious world of wooden shipbuilding.

Again, like you I found a few difficulties straight away. Some of these were due to the planking which was supplied, pretty well OK for the decks but not so good when doing the outer hull sheathing. The instructions weren't quite right at times, so I somehow found the confidence to do my own modifications where needed.

I found it to be a bit of trial and hopefully not too much error and a lot of patience. Important to get the hull shaping correct and then the initial laying on of planking went quite well. With an inordinate amount of tedious work and patience I made my own tree nails, or trunnels, and used these in place of the supplied brass nails wherever possible. Using a file where necessary to get the nail heads down flush worked well, then the sandpaper for a finer job. Hundreds of trunnels were a pain to make and took a lot of time but were quite rewarding. I smugly patted myself on the back, thinking I was doing it a bit more like the original would have been.

Next part was the trickiest of all: getting the outer sheathing looking right. I was able to fill in all the gaps in the under planking as I went along, cutting shapes to do so and carefully fitting them. Then I found out that my suspicions were right, in that no real modeller would have planking ending in sharp points. OK perhaps for the underneath where nobody sees it but an absolute nono for the top layers where the use of even smaller, to scale tree nails or trunnels made it work. 

Lots of information available online as to how to make the planking work 'authentically'. I had to make my own veneers for the upper planking layers which on this build will be varnished and stained rather than painted. At least I have the replica "Endeavour" to go on.
Couldn't get any veneer here in NZ easily for that but found some walnut veneer on sale at a craft shop for the lower hull sheathing, but still way too thick, so lots of careful sanding. A nice job for a sunny arvo outside on the deck.

Hope it goes OK. I'm looking forward to restarting the build sometime fairly soon. Can't wait to get into the complexities of the rigging and sails, etc. Worth the work though. 

Regards, Paul


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## Sully (Apr 26, 2009)

Ah yes, I don't miss the sometimes frustrating modelling with either wood, plastic or resin.

I much prefer the virtual kind. No shopping ( and paying) for whatever to get the job done.

No mess, my time is spent in research and rendering. The wife is happy my 200 + vessels are not on many shelves.

Holding it in your hands is great, until you drop it!

My real models exist now in my mind. 

But, if you enjoy the sport. Have at it!


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